Hello all
After 4 nights in Mexico City (more on that later), I am now in the historic
colonial town of San Miguel de Allende - about 4 hours north of Mexico City.
You will have to wait for the pictures to really get an idea of what I have seen
and experienced during this trip. As I stated previously, this trip has totally
blown me away. I had a feeling that I would enjoy the Mexican experience but I
had no idea how interesting it would be.
I first heard about this town from a teachers' magazine - there is quite an
expatriate population here - many Americans, Canadians who either winter here or
have even moved here permanently. Also quite a few Europeans. One book I read
said that they make up about 5% of the population of 70,000. Having said that,
it is certainly still very Mexican with all of the things that you would
associate with a third world country including the hundreds of street stalls and
vendors selling every kind of consumer items and food and drink
There is a great deal of history associated with the town - it was at the centre
of the beginnings of the fight for independence from Spain in 1810. In fact, it had
a population of close to 50,000 at the end of the 1700,s - larger than NYC.
Some of the earliest buildings (including some of the over 200 churches in the
area) date back to the mid 1500´s.
It certainly typifies everything that I envisioned an old Mexican town - narrow
cobblestone streets, inner courtyard off of these streets that open into
wonderful places where people live but are now also taken up by many galleries,
shops, stores and restaurants
This morning I had a great breakfast (delicious omelets, fresh rolls, juice and
coffee - $7.oo in the most wonderful setting - an inner courtyard that was open
to a clear sky - fountain in the centre, trees and flowers blooming, songbirds
chirping around me - again you will have to see the pictures. There are
literally dozens of these kinds of places to enjoy a meal.
I am on the internet from the library that has a huge collection of books in
english. I am paying $1.00 hr. The library occupies a wonderful old colonial building with a number of inner courtyards and
contains a lovely patio that serves food and drink.
This morning I also visited the ¨Palace of Fine Arts¨- another beautiful
courtyard surrounded by three levels with balconies facing in. There is a very
large artistic colony in the city and this building is used for teaching a whole
variety of skills - sculpting, ceramics, print-making , painting ect.
I have actually taken a little time to sit still for more than 5 minutes and
just enjoy sitting in one of the courtyards or squares that are so common and
just enjoy the sunshine (around 70 F), listen to the birds singing and watch the
people.
The prices for everything (Mexico City included) average about 60-70% of
comparable prices in Canada. My room in this old converted monastery (have to see the
pictures!) is clean with private bath for around $45.00 US. My place in Mexico
City ( a block from the centre of the historic district was actually even nicer
and more modern (but nowhere near as quaint or picturesque) was even less.
A 15 minute taxi ride averages about 2.00 and taking the city bus anywhere
around town is around .50 cents. The four hour (260 km) bus ride from Mexico
City to here - on a first class bus with TV, washroom and a box lunch thrown in
was $18.00. Obviously your money goes a long way compared to Canada or the US
-- Just a few more comments about Mexico City. Take a city with 20 million
people, provided a massive subway system that costs .20 for a ride anywhere on
it including transfers, and you begin to understand why there are so many people that help to support the thousands of small shops,
street vendors, markets, festivals, free concerts, buskers, galleries, etc,
etc. There is something interesting to see and experience around every corner.
As I mentioned in my first e-mail, I was amazed at how many green areas there
are in the city. Hundreds of small plazas and town squares in the many neighbourhoods that make up the city, 12 lane boulevards - similar in size to
the Champs Elysee in Paris, a city park that must easily be 2-3 times as big as
Central Park in NYC.
Last Saturday I visited the neighbourhood where Frida Kahlo grew up and the
house (now a museum) where she lived with Diego Rivera for a number of years.
It is a must-see for anyone who are fans. I saw some of the over 200 murals
that Rivera created during his lifetime - absolutely mind-boggling considering
that most of them are well over 10 x 20 feet in size. Given his background
and the painful and conflict ridden life that she experienced, it is easy to
understand how they are perhaps the country's most famous and beloved artists. By the way,
it was non-stop action in the two city parks - a total feast for the eyes, ears
and nose. Buskers, music, literally hundreds of food stalls, vendors booths, an
amusement park area - you had to be there!!
Anyway, I'm sure you have had enough of my ramblings. Needless to say it has
been pretty impressive to me. Let me know if you want to see some of my
pictures. I'll post many of them (probably way too many!!) on my website when I
get back.
With love and best wishes to all,
Larry